Having co-operation of "Davoud Mohammadi Far", Iran Mountain Zone is going to
publish short paragraphs from history of mountaineering in Iran in a weekly base. These
paragraphs will be extracted from notes and following books of Mohammadi Far :
1. History of mountaineering in Iran - M.A. Ebrahimi & D. Mohammadi Far , 2003
2. A chronological history of Iran’s mountaineering and caving - D. Mohammadi Far , 2005
3. Mountain’s lady - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
4. Directory of mountaineering and caving in Iran - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
5. Calendar of mountaineering history in Iran - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
References are in hand and are listed in mentioned books.
Website Manager November 2006
Azar 5th, 1379 (November 26, 2000)
The 9th Asian climbing Championship kicked off at the City Hall Velodrome in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia on Friday November 26th.
Almost 115 men and women climbers were gathered from 13 Asian countries to compete in lead and speed categories. Amongst this pile of athletes, Iran’s national climbing team comprised of 7 men climbers had participated with Naser Sarvar-Masoule as their coach.
After two day competition, Japanese and Korean climbers occupied first ten places in final ranking of Men’s lead. Meanwhile, Amir Pirveisi, Mehdi Parsafar, Husain Yazdandoust and Davoud rekabi respectively placed 15th, 23rd, 35th and 39th among 50 climbers from 11 countries.
In men’s speed, Abbas Mohammadi and Amir Husain Samavat were Iran’s representatives. They took 11th and 12th places in final ranking among 28 climbers from 9 countries.
Azar 28th, 1376 (December 18, 1997)
On Friday 28th of Azar, 1376, Iran Mountaineering Federation opened a new climbing gym in Shiroodi sport
complex. The complex is placed in Tehran’s downtown.
After two years, a 94 square-meter indoor bouldering wall as well as a 15-meter outdoor climbing lead wall was
constructed with 40 million Rials fund.
Azar, 1370 (December, 1991)
The construction of first indoor sport climbing wall of Tehran started in December,
1991 and finished after 4 months.
The designer and constructor team included Hamid Rohani, Parviz Rohani, Hussain
Khosh-Cheshm and Abbaas Mohammadi from Arash Mountaineers Club of Tehran beside a few
members from mountaineering groups of Tehran’s southeast side.
They attached some natural stone pieces as climbing "holds" on the inner
side of "Takavar" sporting saloon’s enclosure. "Takavar"
Saloon is located in SE side of Tehran next to "Afsarieh" highway.
Azar 30th, 1369 (December 20, 1990)
On Friday 30th of Azar, 1369, the first rock climbing competition in Iran
was hold in Band-e-Yakhchal, a climbing resort in Mount Tochal. There were
competitors from all over the country, where Mehdi Fattaahi from Arash
Mountaineers Club took the first place.
Abbaas Mohammadi, who had cooperated with technical committee of Iran Mountaineering
Federation on organizing the contest and the first referee training course, was the
head of competition’s referee team.
Azar , 1352 (November, 1973)
November 1973, Asad Kianian fell to his death while attempting to reach "Sheikh-Alikhani" summit at 3345 m in "Paro" region, Kermanshah.
The accident happened in a steep coluier at the west side of "Kolpa-Koe" wall, which is about 650 meters and ended to a same named summit at 3120 m.
Afterwards, his friend, Jafar Kashani also ran into trouble because of cold weather and rescue team found him with light frostbite in his legs and arms.
"Kolpa Koe" is a Kurdish name that means Violet Mountain .
 Behnam Husaini, "Climbing routes in Kermanshah Mountains?", 1st Edition, Iran, 2010.
Azar 28th, 1350 (December 19, 1971)
Nineteenth day of December in 1971 was a Sunday that Iran’s Mountaineering
Federation decided to hold its public sessions in various clubs every 15 days as an
opportunity for mountaineers to know each other.
The first session was carried out in Ararat Club, while a video of mountaineering was
showed. Afterwards, Tehran University’s mountaineering group hosted the second
meeting, where university’s top mountaineers were rewarded and a slide show
including their activities was exhibited in a hall in science faculty. Meanwhile, MFI’s president in those days, "Mr. Norouzi" gave a speech.
At the closure of second gathering, it was declared that the next meeting would be
held in "Aryamehr" university on 18th of January, 1972. "Aryamehr" university was changed to "Sharif" university after the Islamic
revolution in 1978.
Azar 13th, 1349 (December 3, 1970)
On Friday 13th of Azar, Kiyumars Baba-Zadeh, Gholam-Reza Danesh-Var,
Gholam-Hossein Vahhab-Zadeh, Mohammad Shah-Pasandi, Ebrahim Babaei, Nader Safavi
Naeini, Rahim Malek and Ahmad Yazdani, eight members of Arash Mountaineers Club of
Tehran left Shirpalaa Shelter in Mount Tochal toward the Eagle village.
In the midway, they came across two brothers, who had lost their own way;
Jaan-Mohammad and Ali-Reza Amini. Jaan-Mohammad and Ali-Reza joined the group, which
broke apart in two smaller teams later. Babaei, Danesh-Var, Shah-Pasandi and
Baba-Zadeh were leading, and remnants were ascending 20-30 meters behind them.
Crossing over the skyline toward the Eagle valley, the leading group was stopped, whe
they heard a rescue shout in altitude of 3000m. Rahim had been trapped in deep snow.
They succeed to take him off but unfortunately, after a few moments a big avalanche
hit five of the members. This event was happened in a location called "Shahr
Banoo Kosh" Valley. Gholam-Hossein, Ahmad, Nader, Jaan-Mohammad and Ali-Reza were
found dead 600m lower next day. This event was a shock for the club, but Ebrahim
changed the atmosphere by participating in the winter expedition of German flank of
Alam-Kouh, led by Bahman Shahvandi two months later.
Azar 25th, 1337 (December 16, 1958)
On Tuesday, 16th day of December in 1958 colonel Hussain-Ali Bayat was
chosen as president of Iran’s Mountaineering Federation.
He was at the head of MFI for 26 months and during that period colonel Sepah-Pour, Mr.
Mojtabaei, Mostafa Masoud-Nia and Naser Nazmi were his colleagues.
In autumn, 1953, "Damavand" Mountaineering and Ski Association was
established after suspension of "Nirou va Rasti" Sporting Club because of
Gathering in Imam- Zadeh Ghasem of Shmiran region in north side of Tehran, the
suspended club’s board of directors decided to establish a mountaineering and
ski association and mentioned it "Damavand", which is renamed to Damavand
Mountaineering and Ski Club, later on. The club is located in Lalehzar-e-No Avenue at
Azar, 1327 (November, 1948)
In November, 1948, Nader Batmanghelich, an Army Major General was appointed to serve as the first president at mountaineering federation of Iran at his 45. He was directing MFI till March 1, 1950.
Iran’s Mountaineering Federation was indeed a joint federation for mountaineering and also skiing, which had been constituted in 1947 under the supervision of sport organization.
Azar 19th, 1326 (December 10, 1947)
Manouchehr Mehran -founder of Niroo-Rasti sport club- died suddenly in a heart
attack. He was among founders of Niroo-Rasti sport club and pioneers in the history
modern mountaineering in Iran.
After Mehran’s death, his widow Monir Jazani managed the club. At the same
time, Manouchehr Khalatbari was in charge of mountaineering department of the club.
Later on, Niroo-Rasti club was closed because of political events in that decade,
when Damavand Ski and Mountaineering club was founded by the same members of
Mehran was the greatest protector and promoter of mountain sports in Iran. He led
the biggest expedition to that time to Mount Damavand composed of 50 mountaineers
where 40 out of them summitted Damavand. Few other expeditions were led by him to
visit different caves around the country at that time.
Azar 8th, 1325 (November 8, 1946)
The Iranian Speleologists Council was founded by "Changiz Sheikhli". This
highly prolific council has been one of the bests over the past six decades. The
council, with its limited members, was in charge of searching and exploring about
caves of Iran. Sheikhli personally surveyed many of Iran’s caves and also
discovered over a thousand new ones.
He is the author of 16 valuable books. His important book “Caves Satin of Iran”, which contains routes and accurate maps of caves has not been published
Unfortunately, this valuable book may be forgotten forever (like Khanji’s
Mountain Dictionary), If the organizations in charge continue not to pay attention
image: Office of the Iranian Speleologists Council, Tehran 1965
from left: Kiumars Rafiei, Abbas Amini Hajibashi, Changiz Sheikhli, Abdolhamid
Arfaei, Akbar Shafizadeh
"A chronological history of Iran’s mountaineering and caving"
Azar 27th, 1304 (December 18, 1925)
French pilot "Jirie" did the first flight over Mt. Damavand with 5671 m height on Friday, December 18, 1925.
Iran’s war minister and a French assistant pilot were the other passengers of that plane.
Azar 12th, 1268 (December 3, 1889)
In a stormy weather with the temperature minus 26 Celsius, “Jack Jan Mary De
Morgan” recorded the first winter ascent to Mount Damavand. At the same time, a
fellow climber of him was about to die. De Morgan wrote in a statement after the
ascent: “I believe that Mount Damavand is wonderful and has so much unexpected
for the adventurous scientists…. Bringing a nice collection of the mountain
’s stones as souvenir, we came back to Raineh at 8 o’clock.”
De Morgan was a French mountaineer who was among the pioneer speleologists in Iran as
well. He produced the first speleological map of Iran’s cave.