Having co-operation of "Davoud Mohammadi Far", Iran Mountain Zone is going to
publish short paragraphs from history of mountaineering in Iran in a weekly base. These
paragraphs will be extracted from notes and following books of Mohammadi Far :
1. History of mountaineering in Iran - M.A. Ebrahimi & D. Mohammadi Far , 2003
2. A chronological history of Iran’s mountaineering and caving - D. Mohammadi Far , 2005
3. Mountain’s lady - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
4. Directory of mountaineering and caving in Iran - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
5. Calendar of mountaineering history in Iran - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
References are in hand and are listed in mentioned books.
Website Manager November 2006
Bahman 30th, 1381 (February 19, 2003)
The 3rd national rock climbing championship to remark "Decade of Fajr" kicked off on February 19, 2003 in Neyshabour city.
That event was dedicated just to men’s lead and men’s speed categories. In Lead competition, Vahid Asgari from Hamedan gained first prize and Meysan Taqi-Pour from Qazvin and Morteza Eftekhar from Karaj followed him respectively.
Moreover, in speed contest, Husain Saif from Isfahan race up faster than all and took the first place.
Top climbers of Fajr Championship entered Iran’s Rock Master in April 2003.
Bahman 19th, 1374 (February 8, 1996)
Fereydoun Esmaeel-Zadeh together with Homayoun Mahboub from Arash Mountaineers Club left Tehran on Thursday, February 2nd to ascend "Do-Berar" ridge in east Alborz Range.
Around 2:00 P.M., they reached a CWM close to Parvaneh peak (4100 m) at the beginning of Do-Berar ridge. They decided to pitch their tent beneath the summit, where they could be protected from the strong wind bellowing on the ridge.
"The weather was so windy that made us to take our tent a bit lower on the northern slopes of the ridge. It was 3:00 A.M. on Friday. We woke up suffocating from lack of Oxygen. Our tent had been buried under the pile of fresh snow. In a few seconds, we were out clearing the roof, when a sudden flow of snow hit us. Miraculously, I survived. But where was Homayoun? I shouted, "Homayoun", "Homayoun". Nothing was heard. The avalanche zone was not that much large, so that I started to dig the surrounding area. A bit later, Homayoun appeared with his face covered with powder snow. There were no vital signs," reported Fereydoun.
Leaving Homayoun there, the avalanche survivor returned back to Tehran. Since then several search operations have been done to find Homayoun’s dead body, which finally resulted on next July.
"Do-Berar" is a long ridge starts at Haraz road (the road between Amol and Tehran) and finishes 63 km farther near FirouzKouh city. With More than 23 high peaks placed on it, the winter climb of Do-Berar has been always a demanding program among Iranian mountaineers.
Bahman 2nd, 1371 (January 22, 1993)
Salim Shaloum, Farshad Khalili and Majid Moslehi (leader) from Damavand Ski & Mountaineering Club left Tehran for an attempt on Mt. Shah-Alborz in west part of Alborz Range on January 22, 1993.
Spending 6 days, they went up to the summit at 4220 m from south side and descent from NE ridge toward "Dinde-Roud" village near Alamut valley. No one had ever been succeeded before to pass the same route on Shah-Alborz in winter.
With more than 120 km distance from Tehran, Mt. Shah-Alborz is located on the border between Taleqan and Alamut valleys.
Bahman 24th, 1369 (February 13, 1991)
Starting on Wednesday, February 13th in 1991, Mohammad Nouri managed to
summit Mt. Alam-Kouh (4850 m) via its 700 m northern wall in a solo attempt in four
During the first attempt along with his friends from "Arash" Mountaineers
Club of Tehran, one of the members with the name of "Ishkhan Ebrahimi" got
frostbitten in his fingers and toes, so the expedition called off to carry him down
the mountain. Arriving in "Roudbarak" village at the northern foot of
Takht-e-Solaiman region, Mohammad decided to return back to Alam-Kouh along with Ehsan
On February 13th, at daybreak Mohammad took a few but sufficient gears and
set out toward "Arash" route at east side of the wall. On February 14th, when Mohammad was trying to reach a wide ledge known as "French traverse" in the
middle of the wall, a piton jumped out of the crack. Not only he fell approximately 5
meters, but also his rope damaged. Mohammad renewed his attempt and fell once again
due to piton misplacement.
Looking at his friend trying to climb a few more meters, Ehsan got very anxious and
decided to get back to Tehran for a rescue team, but Mohammad was serious enough to
climb the rest. Afterwards, he bivouacked two nights on that granitic wall in an
extremely cold weather and reached the summit on February 16th.
On the other side, a rescue team from mountaineering federation was carried to
"Alam-Chal" camp by a chopper, but they found him relaxed in his camp.
Bahman 13th, 1368 (February 2, 1990)
Mohammad-Reza Davoudi the vice president of Mountaineering Federation of Iran in 1980s died of pulmonary edema, while attempting to climb Alam-Kouh’s north wall on February 2, 1990.
Born in 1951, Mohammad-Reza was a talent rock climber in his era, whose records are considerable goals even these days.
Bahman , 1362 (February, 1984)
Twenty five years ago, in February, a team of alpinists from Tehran and Araak climbed mount "Kol-e-Jeno" in
Oshtoran-Kouh massif, which is part of Zagros mountain range in west of Iran. The winter ascent of Kol-e-Jeno that was done
by Naser Khoush-e-Chin, Ali Mohammad-Pour, Fereydoun Esmaeeil-Zadeh and Ebrahim Babaei, never succeded until 1999 ,in spite
of a few other trials.
That event became the start of a continuous coordination among a group of mountaineers who accomplished many glorious
alpine activities over Iran mountains. Ali mohammad-Pour and Jalal Forouzan(Raaboki) were the key members of that group
which was Known as "Winter Ascents Team".
Bahman 13th, 1356 (February 2, 1978)
On February 2, 1978, a group of mountaineers from Tabriz city managed to summit Mt. Damavand (5671 m) from north side for the first time in Iran’s mountaineering history.
Reza Azghandi (leader), Masoud Agha-Balaei, Rahim Behzadi, Biyouk Binesh, Hasan
Partovi, Behrouz Rahbar and Saeid Setvati were members of that expedition, who set
four camps on 3200m, 3800m, 4200m and 5000m before pushing the summit. That 9-day
expedition caused Hasan Partovi to lose his toes due to severe frostbitten.
Bahman , 1350 (January, 1972)
Fo-ad Tabasi seriously injured after a fall on the slopes of Mt. "Gol-e-Zard", thirty eight years ago in January, 1972. Bringing him to a hospital took more time than
usual and unfortunately he died of severe kidneys hypothermia.
Located at the SW side of Mt. Damavand, "Gol-e-Zard" peak goes up to 3700 m
in terms of autonomous height.
Bahman , 1348 (January, 1970)
late January, 1970, Fereydoon Najjaah who was survived an avalanche the previous year in Takht-e-Soleyman Region, together
with Ahmad Farzin Nia were hit by an avalanche to death, at the beginning of the Flank near Shane-Kouh peak. Hossein Adili,
Jamshid Abdollahi, Mohammad Shah-Pasandi, Raafik Minasiyan and Bahman Shahvandi and those late mountaineers were trying to
ascend mount Alam-Kouh from German Flank which was stopped because of that event.
A funeral ceremony was officially performed in Fakhr-o-Dole mosque in February 6th, in Tehran, where large
number of mountaineers participated.
Bahman , 1347 (February, 1969)
A group of eight mountaineers, including Jalil Enferadi, Bahman Shahvandi, Fereydoon Najjaah, Abdollahi, Khachik
Mardroosian, Shah-Pasandi, Mohsen Abdoli, Alireza Aman and four local guides including Safar Naghavi, Ali Mohammad Farzi,
Mohammad and Mofid made the first winter ascent of Takht-e-Solayman peak in an extreme cold temperature (bellow minus 35
The group climbed through Sarchal, Siyahghog, Dandan-e-Ezhdeha and north-east flank of Takht-e-Solayman. It took 17 days
and eventually four mountaineers summitted the peak.
In this climb, a broken cornice hit Fereydun, though he survived by the support of Jalil and Safar -the local guide- after
a fall on icy slope.
Bahman 20th, 1344 (February 9, 1966)
Mehri Zarafshan, Iran’s top woman mountaineer ascended to Mt Damavand along with her
fellow climbers, Abbas Alizadeh, Naser Gharschi and Hamzeh Solaymani (a local guide) and spent a
breezing cold night at the summit to be the first team to do it in winter time. In the
same year, Abas Alizadeh recorded the first winter ascent to Karmakouh in the Alamkuh
Mehri Zarafshan died in 1991. She was an outstanding figure in mountaineering of Iran
in her time.
Bahman, 1338 (February, 1960)
Changiz Sheykhli, the leader of Iran’s cavers committee, along with Bahman Boustan Surveyed two caves near Hamedan
city, in west of Iran. Two 180 meters dept and 160 meters dept caves are located in Abbass-Abaad village 234 km south west
of Ghazvin city and a km farther than Hamedan’s hot spring.
Drawing caves map, Sheykhli added: "Abbaas-Abaad caves were used as safe accommodations in 9th and 10
th centuries of solar calendar during Kingdom era of Teymouri and Safavi when Mongols had attacked Iran.
Bahman 24th, 1337 (February 13, 1959)
The Alamkouh winter expedition, including Mohammadbagher Ziarati, Gholamreza Ekinche, Mostafa Montazam, Mohammad
Ebrahimzadeh, Parviz Abolghasemi, Mehdi Lotfi, Yaghob Heibati and Hoshang Hojati under the leadership of Hossien
Rezaei,summitted the main peak at 2:35pm in a cold weather of 25 degree Celsius minus zero. It was the first winter summit
of Alamkouh, while six out of the nine mountaineers stood at the top.
In the same day, they also recorded the first winter ascent of Marjikash peak too.
Bahman 5th, 1300 (January 25, 1922)
The well-known Iranian alpinist, Jalil Katibe-ei was born on Wednesday, January 25th of 1922 in Tehran.
Since his adolescence, Jalil has involved in several kinds of sport, but alpinism has
attracted him more than the others, where he is known as one of the most effective
people in Iran’s modern alpinism.
Katibe-ei did an individual winter ascent to Mt. Tochal on February 14, 1946.