Having co-operation of "Davoud Mohammadi Far", Iran Mountain Zone is going to
publish short paragraphs from history of mountaineering in Iran in a weekly base. These
paragraphs will be extracted from notes and following books of Mohammadi Far :
1. History of mountaineering in Iran - M.A. Ebrahimi & D. Mohammadi Far , 2003
2. A chronological history of Iran’s mountaineering and caving - D. Mohammadi Far , 2005
3. Mountain’s lady - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
4. Directory of mountaineering and caving in Iran - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
5. Calendar of mountaineering history in Iran - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
References are in hand and are listed in mentioned books.
Website Manager November 2006
Day 7th, 1385 (December 28, 2006)
On December 28, 2006, Farhood Farhadi teamed up with Hasan Rafi for a long winter mountaineering in central part of Alborz range from Mt. Sarakchal toward Mt. Azadkouh, 56 km farther.
They started from Shemshak ski resort in Tehran province, spent 9 days afterwards passing dozens of 4000er peaks, whose average altitude is around 4200 meters and finished on Friday, January 1, 2007 in "Kalak", a village at north side of Mt. Azadkouh in Mazandaran province. These two strong men did the first winter ascent of this skyline, which is supposed as the highest of middle Alborz range.
Some of the summits they succeeded to top are as follows:
Sarak-Chal (4210 m), Siah-Ghar (4125 m), Borj (4325 m), Kholeno (4375 m), Mish-Chal (4253 m), Paloun-Gardan (4203 m), Kharsang (4250 m), Narges (4206 m), and Azadkouh (4395 m).
Farhood is a member of Arash Mountaineers Club, while Hasan belongs to Tehran Mountaineers House.
Day 20th, 1380 (January 10, 2002)
On January 10, 2002, nine strong students from Sharif University of Technology teamed up toward Takht-e-Solaiman region in west part of Alborz range to climb northern wall of Alam-Kouh in a winter attempt.
They climbed Poland route (1973) up to "Qomqomeh" ledge in the middle of the wall. In order to take shelter from the cold wind, which sweeps the wall from the west, they decided to continue via "Shokouh" route toward the summit. Finally after several days of teamwork on the most prestigious wall over Iran, Sharif students got to the summit at 4864 m on January 23rd.
Alireza Kheyrkhah, Husain Mohammadian, Babak Zia, Morteza Navidi, Mehdi Yeganeh, Ali Pirayesh, and Bouye Sadat-Nia were members of that expedition led by Javad Soleimani.
Day 15th, 1379 (January 4, 2001)
On Thursday 15th of Day, 4th day of Christian year, the first meeting of Iran’s alpine club was
held in Enghelab sport complex of Tehran. Three hundred mountaineers from cities of Tehran, Karaj, Hamedan, Mashad, Khorram
Abad, Sanandaj, Shahroud, Bouroujen, Tabriz, Zanjan, Arak, Ramsar, Isfahan, Shahr-e-Kord, Sarab, Rasht, Amol and Takestan
had joined the meeting, of whom 16 persons candidate for election of board of directors. The election accomplished with
votes of 257 persons and ended to following result:
Ebrahim Babaei, Abolfazl Azimi, Abbaas Mohammadi, Mohammad Taghi Bahrevar, Nahid Jokar, Hasan Zarrin Ghalam and Forouzan
Ziadlou elected as main members, Ahmad Akhavan and Jalal Eftekhari as alternative members, Jalal Forouzan as auditor and
Mohammad Ali Roudi as alternative auditor.
At last, the board chose Abolfazl Azimi as the chairman, Hasan Zarrin Ghalam as the vice chairman and Abbaas Mohammadi as
Day 30th, 1371 (January 20, 1993)
The first winter ascent of the "Alvand" region’s main skyline from
"Kolah Ghazi" peak to "Ghezel Arsalan" peak in Hamedan, started on
Wednesday, January 20th in 1993.
Hamedani mountaineers Jalal Chashme-Ghasabani, Kazem Arab, Hussain Gholami, Iraj
Safa-Doust and Hamid-Reza Olanj spent 6 days to traverse "Kolah Ghazi (3125m)", "Yakhchal(3486m)", "Kalagh Lan(3480m)", "Dayem Barf(3450m)",
"Ghezel Arsalan(3250m)" in "Alvand" mountainous region, stretched
from NW to SE side of Hamedan province.
A few days after the first ascent, Ebrahim Babaei and Fereydoun Esmaeil-Zadeh from
"Arash" Mountaineers club of Tehran, beside a few of their friends from
"Babak" Mountaineering Group of Hamedan like Mahmoud Choub-Rizan did the 2nd winter traverse of that skyline.
"Alvand" is considered as one of the east branches of Zagros range.
Day 22nd, 1363 (January 12, 1984)
On 12th of January in 1984, Abbas Mohammadi (leader), Masoud Mehrnoush,
Farhad Mohebi and Hooman Lavasani from Arash Mountaineers Club of Tehran left "Lasem" Village for an attempt on Mt. "Do-Berar" in an alpine style.
Extreme weather pushed them inside their tent during the second day. The next day,
Hooman became sick and returned back to "Lasem", while the rest took the
chance of a little weather improvement, went up toward a rocky pinnacle beneath the
main skyline and set up a camp.
It was snowing heavily whole the night. Fourth morning, they dig the tent out of a
pile of snow, but tornados plus thunders prevented Arash mountaineers from any
progress that day.
They managed to pass rocky portion of the route during fifth day and set their last
camp just beneath the peak. Two of Mohammadi’s fingers were frostbitten, while
trying to pitch the tent.
Eventually on January 17th, abbas along with Masoud and Farhad ascent the
4400-meter summit of "Do-berar" after a six-day attempt in extreme weather
and took the trail downward the northern side. It was still snowing, when they arrived
in "Lasem" at night.
"Do-Berar" is the highest summit of 70-km long "Ghar-e-Dagh"
skyline located in the southern side of Mt. Damavand, the highest mountain in Iran.
Day, 1355 (December, 1976)
Jalal Raboki, Mahmoud Afghan, and Majid Abdollahi attempted to climb Mount Damavand through the Yakhar front, a very steep
glacier beside a few rocky pillars on the Northeast side of Mount Damavand. The team passed through Estelesar and reached
the Yakhar valley, but soon they had to return to Estelesar after facing a severe storm in the Yakhar valley. This
unsuccessful effort is the only attempt to climb over on the Yakhar valley in the winter.
Day 13th, 1353 (January 3, 1975)
January 3, 1975 was a hazardous day! At that day, Naser Malekmohammadi a member of Kaveh climbing group, devoted his
life to save a few lost mountaineers in north-east side of mount Tochal. Though, the entire group including Naser was
frozen to death in a blizzard.
At the same day, a few members of Tehran Mountaineers assembly including Fatemeh mirian, Jafar Fouladi, Ahmad Golabi and
Mohammadreza Farshadmehr died in an avalanche in the altitudes far beside Yakhmorad cave. Being informed of the accident,
Mohammad hossein Khan Yaghma and his fellow mountaineers left Tehran toward the region and carried all death bodies to
the lower parts.
Day 7th, 1350 (December 28, 1971)
In 28th day of December, 1971, an expedition of 5 mountaineers left Iran
toward Kenya through Lebanon and Egypt.
Ali Asghar Amin-Nia, Naser Rostami, Hussain Daneshmand, Habibollah Jahan-Kar and Mehdi
Mokri were members of that team, who spent one week to ascend from the bottom of Mt. Kilimanjaro at 1350m to Uhuru peak, main summit of the mountain at 5895m.
During that trip, they also have ascent Mt. Kenya (5200m), which is known as the
second highest mountain in Africa.
Day, 1349 (December, 1970)
Thirty nine years ago in December, Abol-Ghasem Norouzi was appointed to the presidency
of Mountaineering Federation of Iran (MFI) until February, 1971.
The 12th president of MFI was assisted by Jalil Katibe-ei as vice
president, Parviz Shyvari as secretary, Naser Rostami as technical committee manager,
Farrokh Rahm-Del as bursar, Jamshid Feyzi as head of public relations committee,
Vartan Zakarian as foreign affairs committee, Ali-Asghar Amin-Nia as the charge of
high mountains committee, Hussain Rezaei as leader of instructors and Manouchehr
Abol-Molk as counties’ committee manager.
Day 30th, 1348 (January 20, 1970)
On January 20, 1970, Mountaineering Federation of Iran held a meeting with a group of Tehran alpinists to talk about the winter attempts in Takht-e-Solaiman region, west Alborz.
At the beginning of that meeting, MFI’s President Colonel Musa Larijani told his warm congratulations for the first winter ascent of Mt. Takht-e-Solaiman (4650 m) in 1969 and also appreciated participant’s attempts in constructing a small hut on "Alam-Chal" glacier during previous months. That hut was a perfect accommodation for the expedition that was going to do first winter ascent of Mt. Alam-Kouh, the 2nd highest peak over the country in coming winter. They were to summit "Alam-Kouh" from its west side known as German flank.
Afterwards, a movie was shown about "Takht-e-Solaiman" ascent and at the closure Husain Adili, Fereydoon Najjah, Jamshid Abdollahi, Naser Heydar-Pour, Mohammad Shah-Pasandi, Rafik Minasian, Marsorosian, Jalil Enferadi, Ahmad Farzin-Nia, and Naser Gareschi were introduced as members of an expedition that would depart for an attempt on German flank in few days. Bahman Shahvandi was the leader of that team who had been entitled "Winter Ascent Team".
Day, 1339 (January, 1961)
In January, 1961, "Chah-Marg" cave in Fars province was discovered by a group of cavers from that province, who was led by Iran’s famous caver, Ahmad Ma’refat.
While exploring, they found a human skull at the bottom of entrance pit and carried it out to place in alpine museum of Shiraz.
"Chah Marg" is located 54 km west of Shiraz in the vicinity of "Shool", which is a historical village alongside of the road going toward Yasouj. The entrance of this cave has shape of a deep pit that needs more than 25 meters rope descent. it is also a shelter for pigeons
Day 10th, 1272 (December 31, 1893)
In 10th of Day, last day of Christian year, Sir Percy Sykes, the British explorer ascended mount Taftan, a volcanic peak in
south-east of Iran in Sistan-Balouchestan province. He wrote:
«Mountaineering in Balouchestan is difficult; however, we decided to go up mount "Hament" and watching
around landscapes. After a bad decent, I reached the bottom with torn trousers and boots. The next day, we arrive at mount
"Panj-Angosht" nearby. One of our mates, Asadollah khan tried to prevent us from ascending mount Taftan because
he believed it was dangerous in winter. Anyway, we got to "Veraj" village at the sunset, but unfortunately
accompanied with a wobbling friend "Barzir Kerik". We reached to a place named "Band-e-Gelou"from where
1000 feet higher on the mountain seemed covered with white ash which was very similar to snow. Finally after 8 hours of
trekking we stood on the top and realize that Taftan has two peaks. The southern peak, which was called "Ziarat Kouh
" is a bit higher and the northern one is the volcanic and called "Madar-kouh", which is located in the
South-East of mount "Sobh-kouh" and East of "Nar-Kouh". But none of them except Madarkouh is volcanic
[Ten Thousand Miles in Persia (1902)]».