Having co-operation of "Davoud Mohammadi Far", Iran Mountain Zone is going to
publish short paragraphs from history of mountaineering in Iran in a weekly base. These
paragraphs will be extracted from notes and following books of Mohammadi Far :
1. History of mountaineering in Iran - M.A. Ebrahimi & D. Mohammadi Far , 2003
2. A chronological history of Iran’s mountaineering and caving - D. Mohammadi Far , 2005
3. Mountain’s lady - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
4. Directory of mountaineering and caving in Iran - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
5. Calendar of mountaineering history in Iran - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
References are in hand and are listed in mentioned books.
Website Manager November 2006
Esfand 9th, 1381 (February 28, 2003)
In 2003, a team of five men left Iran toward Great Britain on February 28th to take part in winter mountaineering course at Gelenmore Lodge, Scothland’s national outdoor training center.
Mohammad-Husain Hatami, Ali Parsaei, Mohammad-Ali Bostanian, Qader Azimi and Abbas Seyedi-Nia spent 6 days to learn about winter hazards, winter navigation, avalanche avoidance, avalanched rescue techniques, leadership and expedition preparation.
Esfand 22nd, 1377(March 12, 1999)
Ten years ago, on March 12th, 1998, national mountaineering team of Iran, left Tehran for Katmandu, capital city
of Nepal to ascend Mount Everest. It was the 1st Iranian expedition on Everest from south western route. The
expedition members were:
1-Saadegh Agha Jaani Kalkhoran(leader) 2- Fereydoun Bayatani(medician) 3- Homayoun Bakhtiari 4- Hamid Olanj 5- Jalal
Cheshme-Ghassaabani 6- Hasan Najjaarian 7- Rasoul Naghavi 8- Reza Zarei Toudashki 9- Abbaas Ali-Nezhad Ghale-Jough
10- Bahman Rostami 11-Abolfath Saghaei 12- (late) Mohammad Oraz 13- Mohammad Jodaeian 14- (late) Davoud Khadem 15-Eghbal
Aflaki Agh-Bolagh 16-Mahmoud Moghaddam(camera man) 17- Ahmad Ghanei(camera man)
Esfand 16th, 1376(March 7, 1998)
Saeed Moslehi climbed up "Nava" ice fall in a rope with Farshad Khalili on
Saturday, March 7, 1998.
"Nava" is the name of a village 90 km farther than Tehran beside the road to
Amol. There is a waterfall outside the village, which gets frozen in a shape of
icefall during cold seasons. As they reported, the first pitch with 50 meters height
and mostly vertical is the hardest portion of this icefall. They placed 11 screws in
Esfand 13th, 1375(March 3, 1997)
The late Qadir Yazdani together with Mohammad Nouri left "Elit" village on March 3, 1997 toward Roudbarak, a winter trekking through west Alborz.
That trekking was the end part of a long project started from Mt. Damavand in Middle Alborz and finished several ten kilometers farther in Roudbarak village in the vicinity of Takht-e-Solaiman region. They set off from Elit village, at NE side of Mase-Chal (Zarrin Kouh), climbed Mt. Saman (4200 m) and entered Hesar-Chal valley at southern side of Mt. Alam-kouh, where they could go straight toward Roudbarak. They spent 3 days.
Esfand 23rd, 1355(March 14, 1977)
Attempting for two days, the first winter ascent of Mt. Alam-kouh via German flank was
accomplished on Monday, March 14, 1977 by a polish expedition.
Before polish expedition, Iranian climbers had arranged three expeditions to climb
this rocky ridge; Bahman Shahvandi led two expeditions in 1970 and 1971 and Jalal
Forouzan led the third expedition in 1980. The first attempt got disastrous, when
Fereydoon Najah and Ahmad Farzin-Nia were hit by an avalanche to their death and the
later ones were unsuccessful too.
German flank is attributed to west ridge of Alam-Kouh, which was climbed by two German
climbers, Ludwig Schtinawer and Wolfgang Gurter for the first time in august, 1937.
Esfand 27th, 1347 (February 17, 1969)
On March 17, 1969, Ebrahim Babaei, Gholam-Hossain Vahhaab-Zadeh, Mohammad Arzi, Bijan Saadeghi and Kiyoumars Baba-Zadeh
from Arash Mountaineers Group of Tehran opened the first route on Bistoon Wall. Located 30 km out of Kermanshah city in the
historical site of Bistoon, a 1200 meters high limestone wall with the width of 5 km is considered as one of the most
popular spots in Iran for rock climbing and big wall activities.
They placed sixty nine pitons all over the route, which was from difficulty category of 5.9 (YDS grade) during six days of
technical climbing. The route was divided to 30 pitches with the approximate length of 40 meters, which finally led them to
Bistoon Peak in the height of 2850 meters above sea level after 8 days of endeavor in a rainy weather. In the last push,
they bivouaced in a camp in the middle of the wall, where there is a small hut nowadays. This event was the
first ascent of Bistoon wall which was documented in IMF’s bulletin and Arash Group archive.
The next year, Saadegh Karbaasi and German Harry Rost climbed Bistoon wall from approximately the same route. Harry fell
during a traverse though Saadegh manage to control the fall.
Also Arash Group’s climbers, who were led by Kiyoumars Baba-Zadeh repeated the winter ascent of "Arash"
route in January, 1982.
Esfand 1345(March, 1967)
On March, 1967, a team of mountaineers composed of twenty students from university of Waseda in Tokyo, arrived at Tehran in
order to ascend mount Damavand. Iran’s Mountaineering Federation appointed Hussain Adili as their guide toward "
Rineh" village on south slopes of Damavand.
On seventh day, Japanese students set their B.C. 3400 meters above sea level on south face of Damavand and setting up two
camps in the height of 4300 m and 5000 m in the next four days, Nakayama, Tojita, Takachi and Sato succeeded to step on the
top of Damavand, the highest peak in Iran at the height of 5671 m.
Hanoma, the leader of Japanese expedition, who had topped mount Lhotse, the fourth highest mountain in the world in 1966,
said: "there were no difficulties to reach Damavand’s top, but storm, like the one I had experienced over Lhotse
the previous year"
Esfand, 1340 (March, 1959)
Six members of Mountaineering Council of Shiraz led by Iran’s famous speleologist, Ahmad Marefat managed to enter "Marmar" cave in Kazerun city during March 1959.
"Marmar" cave is located approximately 600 meters east of Shapur cave, a historical cave in the south of Fars province, 6 km far from the ancient city of Bishapur. The cave’s name is originated from the huge sculpture of Sasanid king Shapur I placed at its entrance.
"Entrance of Mramar cave is placed above a 70-meter slab. We spent 8 hours to fix rope on this section. Then, we continued up among large quartzite rocks blocking the path every few meters. To pass these rocks that had been rolled down from the upper sections, ladders and technical caving equipments seems necessary," they reported.
Esfand 22nd, 1337 (March 13, 1959)
Mountaineering federation of Iran held a Nordic ski competition at Ab-Ali ski resort, 50 kilometers NE of Tehran on March 13, 1959.
In that event, competitors should ski 6 kilometers to accomplish the trail, where Naser Shoja took the champion title in 18 minute and 30 seconds. The second and third prizes were gone respectively to Iraj Ostovar and Naser Rostami.
The top skiers were awarded by Colonel Daftari, the president of national sport organization.
Esfand 10th, 1328 (March 1, 1950)
On Wednesday, March 1st in 1950 colonel Mansour Mazini were chosen to head
Mountaineering Federation of Iran (MFI).
Dr. Fazlollah Moshaver (vice president), colonel Gholam-Reza Mansour (secretary) and
Ali Shakouei were his colleagues during his presidency, which lasted to October 8,
Esfand 26th, 1312 (March 17, 1934)
Jahangir Emam was born on Saturday, March 17, 1934. He validated as mountaineering
instructor in 1958. Also he took the membership of Damavand Ski and Mountaineering
Club, search and rescue team of Iran’s mountaineering federation and found
mountaineering group of firefighting organization.
Among his mountaineering experiences, Jahangir along with Bahman Nasehi are the first
Iranian, who ascent "Yakhar" glacier on NE side of Mt. Damavand in 1965. He was so much experienced in underground exploring besides.