Having co-operation of "Davoud Mohammadi Far", Iran Mountain Zone is going to
publish short paragraphs from history of mountaineering in Iran in a weekly base. These
paragraphs will be extracted from notes and following books of Mohammadi Far :
1. History of mountaineering in Iran - M.A. Ebrahimi & D. Mohammadi Far , 2003
2. A chronological history of Iran’s mountaineering and caving - D. Mohammadi Far , 2005
3. Mountain’s lady - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
4. Directory of mountaineering and caving in Iran - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
5. Calendar of mountaineering history in Iran - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
References are in hand and are listed in mentioned books.
Website Manager November 2006
Farvardin 30th, 1381 (April 19, 2002)
On Friday, 19th of April in 2002, Iran’s famous alpinist, Jalal
Forouzan (Raboki) disappeared while trying to reach Damavand’s summit via the
south route in a severe weather condition.
Jalal along with Naser Janani and Asghar-Zadeh were to ascend Mt. Damavand as a
tribute to their friend "Abdol-Majid Bani-Hashemi", who had been entrapped
in same situation three years before.
Jalal’s body was found 6 month later somewhere in the "Yakhar"
glacier, NE side of the summit. Born in 1946, Jalal’s fame was mostly due to his several speed climbs on
Farvardin 4th, 1380 (March 24, 2001)
Iran’s national expedition comprised of 16 men left the country on March 24, 2001 for an attempt on Mt. Makalu (8481 m), the fifth highest mountain in the world.
Sadeq Aqajani (leader), Hamid Mosaedian (doctor), Mohammad-Hasan Najarian, Mohammad Oraz, Davoud Khadem, Reza Zareei, Akbar Mehdi-Zadeh, Husain Jamalran, Pouria Parchami, Hadi Karami-Pour, Husain Azimi, Alireza Jalali, Abolfazl Javadi and Amir Akbari were members of that expedition. They topped the mountain on May 13th.
A documentary film directed by Mohammad Reza Arab under the title of "Like A Mountain" was shown at the annual Torino Mountain Film Festival in spring 1993.
In this Film, Mohammad Reza shows a disabled man attempting to reach the very top of Mt. Damavand at 5671 m, the highest point in Iran. Farhad Khatami, the actor finally manages to summit Damavand.
Farvardin 19th, 1337 (April 8, 1958)
On Tuesday, April 8, 1958, Chenqiz Sheikh-lee along with Abdol-Vahed Khanji and Bahman
Nasehi surveyed "Sar-Gardan" cave in vicinity of Firouz-Kouh city NE of
Located somewhere around "Dar-Deh" and "Pir-Deh" villages, "Sar-Gardan" a shaft cave, which goes vertically 72 meters underground.
Farvardin 1st, 1335 (March 21, 1956)
As a result of an initiative by Mohammad Khakbiz, the head of Mountaineering
Federation, the first Iran Mountaineering Congress was held in Shiraz. Delegates from
many Iranian cities such as Tehran, Shiraz, Mashhad, Ardebil, Qazvin, Shahreza and
Bijar attended the 14 day-long congress.
Among the events that took place during the congress was an expedition of Shapour cave
by 74 of attendants. Also a 5-day training course was conducted, while at the end of
the course Abdolmohammad Ta’alohi received the best trainee award among a group
of 30 participants.
Farvardin 16th, 1334 (April 6, 1955)
Iranian world explorer, Isa Omidvar together with his brother Abdollah reached the summit of Mt. Norsing (5500 m) in Indian part of Himalaya on April 6, 1955.
They left Iranís flag and a letter inside a primus box on the summit. Getting back to Darjileeing, Omidvar brothers met Tenzing Norgay, one of the first two individuals known to have reached Everest summit in May, 1953.
"You two are the first Iranians, who have been ever to Himalaya," Tenzing told them. Therefore, this event is supposed as the beginning for Himalayan expeditions of Iran. Moreover, Isa is the first Iranian, who has topped Mt. Kilimanjaro, the highest spot in Africa.
The third ascent to Taftan Summit (4200 m) was Iranian’s first documented summit to the mountain that took place in spring 1949.
Colonel Baharmast (leader), Colonel Kavousian, Colonel Yahyaei, Colonel Naseri, Colonel Zia Daftari, Colonel Nikou-Bonyad, Captain Hashemi, Abolqasem Norouzi, Hasan Motamedi, and Eskandari were that team’s members.
As a volcanic summit in SE side of the country, Tafta was first topped out by British diplomat, Sir Percy Sykes in 1893, whereas the Swedish geographer Sven Hedin did the second summit in 1925.
Farvardin 1324 (April, 1945)
Having been separated from "Peykar" party, its mountaineering club renamed
to "Nirou" mountaineering club in April, 1945.
After a while, "Nirou" changed to "Nirou va Rasti" means "strength and healthiness", and it turned to a distinguished mountaineering club of that era,
where famous mountaineers such as Amir-Husain Amir-Feyz, Manouchehr Jahanbaglou,
Manouchehr Khal’atbari, Mohammad Azami, Abass Mozhdeh-Bakhsh, Chenqiz Moshiri,
Mohammad-Ali Parvizi and Kazem Sharifi took membership in. "Nirou va Rasti"
mountaineering club existed till 1953.
Solar year 1312 (Christian year 1933)
The British geographer and mountaineer, "Douglas Bask", stepped on top of
Alam-Kouh peak in Takht-e-Solaiman region in the Alborz mountain. During the
expedition, he discovered a few glaciers in Takht-e-Solaiman region, which were
proved on his return along with Professor "Hans Bobec", in 1934. He also
succeeded to climb mount "Khersan" for the first time in his return.
It’s worth saying, Douglas’ attempt on Alam-Kouh is the first recorded
ascent of the peak, although he achieved thirty years after "Boren Mouler"
Another glacier survey was done in 1933, by Italian Geologist "A-DESIO"
around Zard-Kouh mountains . Located in south-east of Iran at the heart of Zagros
Range, Zard-Kouh is composed of some 3000m to 4000m range peaks. Desio climbed
the highest point of the region, called "Kolang-Chi" with the height of
4386m. During the survey, he discovered four glaciers with the total area of 150
Solar year 331 (Christian year 952)
The Arab geographer and mine explorer "Abu-Dulaf" went for an exploration on
Mt. Damavand in 952. Although he didn’t manage to reach the summit, but
Abu-Dulaf’s diaries about the hardness and severe dangers during his ascent and
also when he refers to a large spring on the mountain surrounded by Sulphur stones
indicates that history of documented attempts to reach Damavand’s summit goes
back to more than thousand years ago.
He wrote: « There is a peak in "Don-Bavand", which is always covered
with snow and no one can get to its summit. The mountain is known as "Bio-Rasb". Looking at the mountain from "Rey" city in southern side of Tehran, it seems 10
kilometers farther but the distance is much more, approximately 205 kilometers.
Some people believe that Solomon, the son of Prophet David, had imprisoned one of the
devils known as "Sang-e-Sarkesh" somewhere on the mountain, while another
group says; the entrapped one is the king "Afreydoun".»