Having co-operation of "Davoud Mohammadi Far", Iran Mountain Zone is going to
publish short paragraphs from history of mountaineering in Iran in a weekly base. These
paragraphs will be extracted from notes and following books of Mohammadi Far :
1. History of mountaineering in Iran - M.A. Ebrahimi & D. Mohammadi Far , 2003
2. A chronological history of Iran’s mountaineering and caving - D. Mohammadi Far , 2005
3. Mountain’s lady - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
4. Directory of mountaineering and caving in Iran - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
5. Calendar of mountaineering history in Iran - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
References are in hand and are listed in mentioned books.
Website Manager November 2006
Khordad 7th, 1379 (May 27, 2000)
Mohammad Oraz, Davoud Khadem and Akbar Mehdizadeh, members of Iran’s national expedition reached Shishapangma summit on May 27th in 2000.
Iran’s national expedition comprised of 16 men was in the Himalayas since March, 2000 for a double header on Cho-Oyu and Shishapangma. They topped Cho-Oyo early in May and then moved toward Shisha, where the climbers achieved summit after two unsuccessful attempts via NE ridge (normal route).
Khordad 28th, 1378 (June 18, 1999)
Arash Karimi (leader), Arash Rouhi and Fariborz Houtham from Damavand Ski & Mountaineering Club trekked from Dizin pass to 40 km farther at Khatoun-Bargah pass in the heart of middle Alborz range on June 18, 1999.
It took them more than 15 hours to accomplish the mission, where they passed Borj Peak at 4330 m as the highest summit and Kharsang peak at 3850 m as the lowest summit. Despite the average altitude of the ridge is about 3437 meters.
Khordad 28th, 1378 (June 18, 1999)
For the first time in Iran’s indoor climbing History, the national climbing team
took the third place in Asian youth climbing championship that was held in Singapore
in June 17th and 18th, 1999.
During the championship, Husain Yazdan-Doust and Amir Pir-Viesi placed third
respectively in Youth and junior categories. There were 50 attendees from 7 Asian
countries, where Japan, South Korea and Iran got three first prizes in final team
result. Homayoun Bakhtiari was Iranian climbers’ supervisor in that tournament.
Khordad, 1378 (June, 1999)
The Iranian famous alpinist, Ghadir Yazdani, from Arash Mountaineers
club of Tehran ascent Mt. Slesse with 2439m height from the southwest route. The
southwest route covered with granitic rocks involves approximately 1350m of technical
Slesse Mountain, is a mountain just north of the US-Canada border, in the Cascade
Mountains of British Columbia, near the town of Chilliwack. The notable feature of
Slesse is the granitic rocks that cover most parts of the mountain.
During his temporary residence in Canada in 1998 and 99, Ghadir has some other
climbing experience such as ascent to Mount Logan and solo climbing on "Skwamish" wall.
He also succeeded to climb "Yokun Sun" Wall in South Korea in 1997.
Khordad 14th, 1370 (June 4, 1991)
Four climbers from Arash Mountaineers Club of Tehran reached AzadKouh summit via northern wall on June 4, 1991.
The late Ghadir Yazdani along with Hamid Rohani, Parviz Rohani and Nader Haj-Mohsen were that team’s members.
Northern side of Mt. AzadKouh includes a limestone wall, which starts at almost 3700 m and finishes a few steps beneath the summit at 4350 m.
Khordad 19th, 1369 (June 9, 1990)
Three alpinists from Arash Mountaineers Club of Tehran opened a vertical route on west
face of Mt. Ganj-e-Amin (3420 m) in Sistan va Baluchestan province on Saturday June 9,
Mohammad Nouri, Abbas Mohammadi and Ishkhan Ibrahimi-Masihi teamed up to climb 180
meters on rocky face of Ganj-e-Amin in the last day of their 5-day expedition to
"Taftan" mountainous region, SE of Iran.
Ganj-e-amin peak is located near "Torshab" village in a distance of 36
kilometers north of "Khash" city.
Khordad, 1355 (June, 1976)
An expedition of five alpinists from Arash Mountaineering Club of Tehran set out
toward Pakistan to ascend Mt. "Trich Mir", the highest mountain in
Hindu-Kush range with an altitude about 7706 m.
Ebrahim Babaei, Kiyoumars Babazadeh, Gholam Reza Daneshvar, Hussain Ganji and Vafa
Yousefi were five members of this expedition that could proceed up to 7550 meters
after thirty days of serious attempt on west face route from "Chitral"
valley, but lack of experience forced them to stop any further attempt just 150 meters
below the summit.
It’s worthy of remark that part of expedition cost was charged by Tehran Bank
during their 56-day trip.
Khordad 21st, 1345 (June 11, 1966)
Construction of "Meydan-e-Mishan" lodge started on Saturday, June 11th in 1966 by Hamedan climbers.
The Idea of building a lodge in the area that visited by many climbers in Hamedan every weekend was given by Abdollah Hajilou, the president of Hamedan’s Mountaineering Council at the time. Climbers such as Ali Shorveh, Mostafa Selahi, Husain Valizadegan, Fereydoun Esmaeelzadeh, Yousef Nejaei, Fereydoun Astaneh were the most effective people in that project.
"Meydan-e-Mishan" is a plateau in Alvand Mountains, a ridge in Zagros Range placed in Hamedan province, west of Iran. Nowadays, there are two lodges in a distance of less than hour from each other. The second one was made in 1976 in lower part of the mountain.
Khordad 3th, 1340 (May 23, 1961)
Forty four years ago on 23rd of May an expedition of eight cavers whose
names were, Sadegh Ali-akbarzadeh, Sonia Ali-Akbarzadeh, Bahman Nasehi, Naser Fallah,
Jahangir Imam, Abdollah Rashidi, Akbar Shafizadeh and Changiz Sheykhli set out to
detect "Kija-Kachal" cave near Tehran.
Sheykhli wrote in his diary:
« Two hours and a half were taken to fix 120 meter ropes and prepare all-safety
route toward the cave entrance. To enter the cave I should climb a dome, so I started
to place some pitons in a crack underneath the rock. The first one was securely
placed, but while I hammered the second one, suddenly a huge part of rock was broken
and hit my face and hand to blood.
It was a shocking event and my teammates were so anxious about my health.…
Jumaring fixed ropes, Bahman Nasehi finally succeeded to reach the cave’s entrance, while other friends got despaired
of any success.»
Khordad 9th, 1338 (May 31, 1959)
The first speed mountaineering competition among Tehrani mountaineers was held on May
31, 1959 on Mt. Tochal.
This competition was organized by Farrokh Rahm-Del and attended by 81 mountaineers
from various Tehran-based mountaineering clubs.
Khordad, 1306 (June, 1927)
The first documented summit of Mt. Tochal in northern side of Tehran was done by
Iranian veteran, Mahmoud Ajal in June, 1927.
He wrote in his diary:
«I hired a donkey to get myself to Tajrish, an old area north of Tehran. After a
short tour, I left Tajrish toward "Darband", half an hour farther. Then I
should pass a narrow route up a rocky valley to reach a place known as "Pas-Ghal’e", where the main route starts, so I preferred to rent a mule. Afterwards I started
trekking in "Speed-Kamar" valley and got to the summit (3965 m) around 10
a.m., local time. That was the first time one had topped out Mt. Tochal. »
Born in 1902 in Hamadan, Mahmoud Ajal learned basics of mountaineering from his
father. Then he turned to explore various mountainous regions of Iran, which ended to
almost 27 maps.
Khordad 27th, 1271 (June 17, 1891)
One hundred and eighteen years ago, between 17th and 19th of
June, French "Jack Jean De Morgan" ascent Mount "Oshtoran-Kouh".
Oshtoran-Kouh massif is a chain of 4000m peaks in "Zagros" range around
"Lorestan" province, west of Iran. He wrote in his diary:
« I stood on the highest peak of Oshtoran-Kouh. It was one of the most beautiful
and marvelous mountains that I have ascent during my trip in Iran.
We set up the tents in the height of 3200m, at the foot of a snowfield. We planned to
set out the next day in the morning, but there was no professional guide and I forced
to look for the proper route on my own. Finally, I started to climb from such a steep
slope that resembled mostly to a ladder. It took me about 4 hours to reach the summit
in the height of 4700.
From there, a small lake was observable in a valley on south west side. It was called