Having co-operation of "Davoud Mohammadi Far", Iran Mountain Zone is going to
publish short paragraphs from history of mountaineering in Iran in a weekly base. These
paragraphs will be extracted from notes and following books of Mohammadi Far :
1. History of mountaineering in Iran - M.A. Ebrahimi & D. Mohammadi Far , 2003
2. A chronological history of Iran’s mountaineering and caving - D. Mohammadi Far , 2005
3. Mountain’s lady - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
4. Directory of mountaineering and caving in Iran - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
5. Calendar of mountaineering history in Iran - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
References are in hand and are listed in mentioned books.
Website Manager November 2006
Mehr 27th, 1380 (October 19, 2001)
In 2001, Iran’s national women expedition topped out Mt. Pumori (7161 m) in the Himalaya on Friday, October 19th.
To achieve the summit, Iranian women climbers set three camps on the SE ridge and approximately fixed the whole route toward the summit. At the same time, there were several mountaineers from South Korea, Spain, New Zeeland, Finland, Australia, Germany, South Africa and Britain, who did not manage any summit.
Zarifeh Rahim-Zadeh (leader), Sediqeh Moqadam, Rezvan Salmasi, Fatemeh Bathaei, Leila Bahrami, Bahareh Sinaki, Zahra Nazari and Farkhondeh Sadeq were that expedition’s members. They were picked among 301 entrants after a 7-round selection process.
Mehr 27th, 1376 (October 23, 1997)
Twenty third day of October in 1997 was a sad Sunday in Iran’s Mountaineering
history, when Saeid Amini a mountaineering instructor from "Neyshabour" city fell to his death in "Parau" cave.
He was a member of an expedition of ten cavers from "Azadegan"
mountaineering group of Mashhad city in Iran’s NE side, who were at surveying
and filming the deepest cave in Iran with more than 700m depth near Kermanshah in
After Saeid’s death, mountaineering society of the country was deeply
affected, when his mother said: "In order to respect Saeid’s love to his
job as a mountaineers and mountaineering instructor, I devote part of expenses,
which was determined to be spent for his funeral and all insurance income to
mountaineering training of youths in "Neyshabour".
"Neyshabour" is located a few hundred kilometers south west of Mashhad
Mehr 23rd, 1369 (October 15, 1990)
"Hooman Aprin" scaled Mount Everest as the first Iranian. He was leading
an expedition of American, Canadian and Russian mountaineers.
Climbing the south pillar, the expedition faced an avalanche, which caused injury to
a member. They turned back to south BC.
Afterwards, they got permission from Nepalese authorities and decided to try another
chance from South-East ridge. Eventually, at 10:45am of October 15th,
Aprin and his teammates stood on the top.
It’s worth saying that Hooman’s first expedition on 8000ers was
Nanga-Parbat in 1983.
Mehr 20th, 1355 (October 12, 1976)
Mohammad-Jafar Asadi put a record as the first Iranian 8000er summiteer, when he topped Mt. Manaslu (8137 m) on Tuesday, 12th of October in 1976.
Manaslu was the first of fourteen 8000ers that Iranian set off for in a joint expedition with Japanese. It resulted in just two summits by M.Jafar Asadi and Japanese Kagi Yama.
Iranian members of that expedition were Mohammad Khakbiz (leader), Mokhtar Mehdi-Zadeh, Ali Mohammad-Pour, Qasem Dadfarmay, Yousef Hendi, Behzadi, Mohammad-Jafar Asadi, Jalal Forouzan who were accompanied by German Wofgang Gurter. Asadi had spent 3 months in Italy to learn about alpinism, before that expedition.
Mehr 2nd, 1342 (September 24, 1963)
On Tuesday, September 24, 1963, a group of researchers from Veterinary Faculty of Tehran University set to study cave-dwelling bat species diversity around Khorasan province.
Dr. Shahrabi and Dr. Esameel Etemad along with Husain Gilan-Pour, Manouchehr Nizgari and Jahangir Javan spent 3 days to survey "Moqan", "Aqol-Zari" and "Mozdouran" caves. They took 3 specimens to their laboratory in veterinary faculty. After a series of studies, it was cleared out that they are among long-winged bats and belong to families of "Pallidus" and "Pulcher". There was also a special kind of bat just in "Mozdouran", which belongs to "Horseshoe" family.
Mehr 5th, 1341 (September 28, 1962)
The twenty eighth day of September is the anniversary of first documented survey of
Ali-Sadr cave in 1962 by Hamedan’s cavers. Ali Sadr is located in a region
mentioned "Mehraban", 100 kilometers north of Hamedan in Iran’s west
Hussain Vaali-Zadeh, Hussain Za’ati, Taghi Abrishami, Akbar Selahi,
Hussain-Pour Moslemi, Fereydoun Esmaeil-Zadeh, Rajab Bakhtiari, Mohammad Parvarn,
Hussain Saeidian, Fereydoun Mahmoudi, Sadegh Abrishami, Kazem Abrishami and Hussain
Abrishami all from Hamedan were 14 members of that expedition.
In the same program, they surveyed another cave seven kilometers farther known as
"Sarab" cave. It is worth noting that water in Ali-Sadr cave is apparently
supplied with a spring in Sarab cave.
Mehr 16th, 1332 (October 8, 1953)
On Thursday, 8th of October in 1953, Colonel Abdol-Baqi Yahyaei was appointed to direct Mountaineering Federation of Iran.
As the third president of MFI, colonel Yahyaei was assisted by Abol-Qasem Norouzi and Mohammad-Kazem Gilan-pour during his 2-year post, which finished on October 29, 1955.
In an autumn day in 1840, Sir Austin Henry Layard went for a survey of "Salman" cave known as "Ashkoft-e-Salman" located in "Bakhtiari"
region in Iran’s south-west side. In his diary, he wrote:
«They (local guides) led me to a narrow passage inside where, there was a great
natural cave. Human shaped figures were carved skillfully on cave’s wall. One of
the figures contained 36 lines of cuneiform at its left hand side. Five Human-like
figures were carved on another face. Next to the end of the cave, ruins of a
construction, probably pertained to "Sasanian" Dynasty was visible.
Inscriptions, statues and carven words were seemed to belong to 7th or 8
th century Before Christ.…
While I was at surveying the cave and writing down the inscriptions, "Mulla
Cheragh" and his friends’ behavior was much annoying. They thought I was
there for a buried treasure, so asked me nonstop to show them where it was. There was
a hole above one of the inscriptions and they believed treasures should be there.
Not only they didn’t accept my words, but also threat me with death. Inevitably,
I took out my bowie knife to defend myself. This reaction forced them to choose
another strategy and went for my kyack, which was on my horse back and searched it.
After a short struggle, I managed to get back my bag.
Finally, I was convinced to give up surveying and returned back to "Mulla Mohammad" village along with naughty friends.