Having co-operation of "Davoud Mohammadi Far", Iran Mountain Zone is going to
publish short paragraphs from history of mountaineering in Iran in a weekly base. These
paragraphs will be extracted from notes and following books of Mohammadi Far :
1. History of mountaineering in Iran - M.A. Ebrahimi & D. Mohammadi Far , 2003
2. A chronological history of Iran’s mountaineering and caving - D. Mohammadi Far , 2005
3. Mountain’s lady - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
4. Directory of mountaineering and caving in Iran - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
5. Calendar of mountaineering history in Iran - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
References are in hand and are listed in mentioned books.
Website Manager November 2006
Mordad 25th, 1380 (August 16, 2001)
In 2001, the adult National Championship in lead climbing took place from august 16th to 17th at Ardebil province.
The competition had been assumed to result Iran’s lead team in men’s category for Asian Cup in Indonesia. Sixty two climbers had participated from 12 provinces, where Amir Pirveisi, Vahid Asgari and Husain Y.Doust named as top climbers after three rounds. These champions were members of "Hamedan" team.
Mordad 18th, 1376 (August 9, 1997)
On Saturday, August 9, 1997, an Iranian expedition got to the top of Mt. Rakaposhi, 27th highest mountain in the world with 7788 meters height that is located in the Karakoram Range, Pakistan.
Led by Ramin Shojaei, Jalal Cheshmeh-Ghasabani, Husain Khosh-Chesm, Dariush Baba-Zadeh, Mohammad Jadiri, Mansour Afsharian, Reza Zareei, Ali-Reza Amzaherdian, Late Mohammad Oraz, Late Farshad Khalili and Late Esmaeel Motehayer-Pasand were members of that expedition, who had left Iran on July 2nd.
Ramin, Jalal, Reza, Farshad, Husain and Mohammad Oraz were the summiteers.
The expedition had been planned in Arash Mountaineers Club and partly sponsored by Iran’s Mountaineering Federation.
Mordad, 1375 (July, 1996)
Thirteen years ago during last days of July, three mountaineers from Azerbaijan
province in north east of Iran ranked as first Iranian summiteers of Mt. Communism
with 6900m height in Pamir Mountains.
Descending from the summit, Abdol- Hussain Azizi slipped on a glacier and fell to his
death. However, Masoud Agha-Baalaei and Hussain Herasati setup a camp next to accident
spot and sit out bad weather to transfer their friend’s dead body.
Putting their efforts for three days, they could do nothing and unfortunately second
disaster occurred, when Hussain died of a heart attack.
Masoud turned back home that year and returned to the mountain in a group of twelve
Russian climbers in order to search his late friends in the same time next year. They
Dig Husain’s body out of snows, but the other body had fallen into a crevasse
and rescue operations were not possible.
Mordad 10th, 1343 (August 1, 1964)
In 1964, on August 1st , German climber Harry Rost arrived in
Tehran, with opening the first route on 700m north wall of Mt. Alam-kouh in his mind.
After a meeting in Iran’s Mountaineering Federation, Fazlollah Amir-Alaei,
Mohsen Mofidi, Ali Asghar Amin-Nia and Mahmoud Shabestari were chosen as Harry’s
teammates in this project.
The expedition of five alpinists set out toward Takht-e-Solaiman region in west Alborz
on August 5, 1964. Attempting for a few days, German Harry along with his Iranian
rope-mate Fazlollah Amir-Alaei succeeded to open the first climbing route on
prestigious northern wall of Mt. Alam-Kouh, which is known as "Rost-Alaei"
Mordad 14th, 1336 (August 5, 1957)
On Monday, August 5th in 1957, an expedition of 17 mountaineers did the first documented all-Iranian ascent of "Sen-Boran" peak (4050 m) in "Oshtoran-Kouh" region.
The summiteers were: Shirin Om, Iran Om, Leili Bahram-Pour, Golchehre Khosravian, Pouran Kavyani, Fereydoun Ghalibaf, ghasem Firouz-Behi, Farhad Sahbaei, Manouchehr Bahram-Pour, Ahmad Rasouli, Ardeshir Khosravian, Soroush Om, Rahim Badr, Jervant Galoustian, Mohammad-Ali Bayat, Parviz Ashjaei and Gegham Minasian.
Located next to Luristan province in west side of Iran, "Oshtoran-Kouh" is a chain of 4000ers summits in Zagros Range.
Mordad 13th, 1333 (August 4, 1954)
On Wednesday, August 4, 1954, while Colonel Abdol-baghi Yahyaei
was the president of Iran’s mountaineering Federation, Nine Iranian climbers
along with five French gathered in an expedition to climb north wall of Alam-kouh.
Iranians were Mohammad Kazem Gilanpour, Emil Markarian, Gegham Minasian, Noraier
Minasian, Flix Monasakanian, Farokh Rahmdel, Sedhi, Houshang Mohit, Abdollah Rashtian
and Mohammad Azami, while French part included Bernard Pier, Cloud Mayar, George
Asirou, Paul Rahzer, Louis De Bous and Francois Prevor.
After nine days, while Flix and Francois were climbing in a rope on rocky Mt.
Siah-Sang in the east shoulder of Alam-Kouh, Flix fell to his death due to leaving the
Gegham and Emil believed that both Flix’s and Francois’ fault resulted in
that happening, while Mohammad wrote a long story to prove that was just Francois
’guilt that ended to Flix’s death.
Mordad 1st, 1329 (July 23, 1950)
On Sunday, 23rd of July in 1950, Norayer Minasian and his brother Gegham along with Estepan Moradian set off to summit 7 peaks in west Alborz during a 7-day period.
They started from Taleghan region and summited Zarrin-Kouh (4200m) from its south side, then passed Siah-Liz (3975m), Takht-e-Khers (3900 m), Alaneh-Sar (4100m) and Lashgarak (4256m) to reach Gardoun-Kouh (4402 m).
In order to top out the 7th summit, the expedition went down to bottom of "Hesarchal" valley and ascent Alam-Kouh (4860m) from its east shoulder, which is called Shakhak (4790 m) to its west shoulder.
Mordad, 1263 (August, 1884)
In August, 1884, Naser al-Din Shah the second king of Iran during
"Qajar" Dynasty, ascent Mt. Se-Hezar in Takht-e-Solaiman region during a
Mohammad Hasan Khan noted as "Etemad-o-Saltaneh", who was the most
trustworthy retainer of the king accompanied him to the summit. He measured summit’s height that was 4680m.
During this difficult trip, four people of a large population who were going along
with the king were died as well as about seventy mules.
Naser-e-din Shah was assassinated by Mirza Reza Kermani twelve years after this trip.