Having co-operation of "Davoud Mohammadi Far", Iran Mountain Zone is going to
publish short paragraphs from history of mountaineering in Iran in a weekly base. These
paragraphs will be extracted from notes and following books of Mohammadi Far :
1. History of mountaineering in Iran - M.A. Ebrahimi & D. Mohammadi Far , 2003
2. A chronological history of Iran’s mountaineering and caving - D. Mohammadi Far , 2005
3. Mountain’s lady - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
4. Directory of mountaineering and caving in Iran - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
5. Calendar of mountaineering history in Iran - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
References are in hand and are listed in mentioned books.
Website Manager November 2006
Ordibehesht 31st, 1379 (May 20, 2000)
On Sunday, 20th of May in 2000, the well-known Iranian alpinist, Ghadir
Yazdani got to the summit of Mt. Logan after a 7-day attempt. Located on the border
between Canada and Alaska, Mt. Logan is the highest peak in Canada and the second
highest in North America with 6050 m altitude. Ghadir, who was a member of Arash
Mountaineers Club of Tehran, died of leukemia in 2001.
Ordibehesht 30th, 1379 (May 19, 2000)
Climbing competitions in speed category was held on Friday, May 19th in 2000 for the first time in Iran’s indoor climbing history.
Forty two men attended this event in Karaj city, 30 km west of Tehran, where Mehdi Parsafar speed up faster than all and took the first place. Following him, Majid Alvandi, Mohammad Ramezan-Pour and Abbas Mohammadi respectively sorted up to 4th.
Ordibehesht 24th, 1378 (May 14, 1999)
On May 14, 1999, Iraj Safa-Doust climbed "Deux Piere" route that was the most difficult climbing route in Iran at the time and became the 2nd climber to put this record.
The 18-meter "Deux Piere" route opened in 1996, while two French instructors were in the country for a course about route setting. The French climbers along with members of "Babak" climbing club of Hamedan bolted the route in "Khorzaneh" climbing resort, 5km east of Hamedan city. Neither of them managed a topped out even after several attempts and rated "Deux Piere" above 5.13.
In 1998, Hamedan’s star climber Amir Pir-Viesi, who was member of Iran’s national team at the same time, climbed the route in Red-Point style. He did the first free climb on "Deux Piere" and estimated its difficulty grade around 5.13c.
Ordibehesht 30th, 1377 (May 20, 1998)
On Wednesday May 20th, 1998, Iranian mountaineers ascent Mt. Everest from the South-East
route, for the first time in Iran’s mountaineering history.
After seventy days of serious attempt, Hamid Olanj, Mohammad Oraz, Jalal
Cheshme-Ghasabaani and Hasan Najarian along with two Sherpa succeeded to reach Everest
summit at 12:00 a.m. local time. The expedition was composed of twelve expert
mountaineers, who were picked among 89 alpinists through several selection camps.
Azizollah Khalaj, Mohsen Nouri, Hasan Javaherpour and Samad Jabbari were the
instructors during the preparation period.
Ordibehesht, 1374 (April, 1995)
Iranian Reza Hajebi Tabrizi topped "El Capitan" Big wall in Yosemite Valley, north of California State in late April, 1995.
Taking turns, Reza and his
rope-mate "Brian" climbed 27 pitches with the difficulty grade of 5.9 and A4
to grasp top hold of the "Early Morning Light" route.
At the time of this achievement, Reza was a resident student in USA.
Ordibehesht 16th, 1372 (May 6, 1993)
Three rock climbers from "Arash" and "Tarh-e-Kad" clubs of Shiraz did the first attempt on "Shadab" wall, a virgin limestone wall 80 kilometers NW of Shiraz over May 6th-7th.
Nader Karami (leader), Babak Shamshiri and Mohammad Zekavat opened a 250-meter route rated 5.9 and named it "Pazouhesh", which means "exploration".
This wall is located at north side of Mt. Shahrak around Marv-Dasht city that is 45 km far from Shiraz. Shahrak is surrounded by several unclimbed walls.
Ordibehesht 3rd, 1344 (April 23, 1965)
A group of four men comprised of Behrouz Shabestari, Akbar Bashardoust, Mohsen Mofidi and Ali-Asqar Aminnia left Iran on April 23rd in 1695 for a reconnaissance Annapurna IV.
They did the job with the help of one Sherpa and twelve porters during a 2 month period. At the end of this trip, they summited Mt. Norsan (6200 m) while Monson arriving Annapurna region.
Ordibehesht 8th, 1331 (April 28, 1952)
On Monday, April 28th in 1952, 18 alpinists from all over the country
arrived in Shiraz aiming to participate in Iran’s 1st mountaineering
Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, shah of Iran and his second wife queen suraya had also
participated in the opening ceremony, on April 29th. The festival lasted
for 15 days, while various training courses were held in Naghsh-e-Rostam zone and a
few caves were surveyed around Shiraz.
Attendees were: Emil Markarian, abolfazl Mahdioun, Reza Ghadiri, Rasoul Ghadiri,
Mohammad Azami, Khalil Abbasi, Ebrahim Sadri, Kazemi, Fatollah Zandi, Abdollah
Rashtian, Isa Omidvar, Eskandar Jahandari, Ali-Asghar Ordou-Khani, Morteza Parvinshi,
Husain Gholam-Shahi, Gegham Minasian and Karim Bakhtiar (camera-man).
Ordibehesht, 1325 (May, 1946)
Mrs.Tarbiat, the principal of Noorbakhsh school along with Mrs. Nokiani founded the
Noorbakhsh Mountaineering Council for students. This council was the frist of its kind
in Iran, which organized many plans for girl students.
Ordibehesht, 1284 (May, 1905)
The first book subjected to mountaineering in Iran was written in May, 1905 by "Talbof Tabrizi", who was one of the well-known authors and campaigned for the freedom in the
beginning of the Constitutional Revolution.
Printed in Qahira and entitled as "Masalek-ol-Mohsenin", which means "Benefactors’ Doctrine", this book is a fiction story about climbing "Yakhar"
glacier on NE side of Mt. Damavand, but actually it is a background for a gentle
review about social issues in Iran during that era. It looks that he himself was a
Solar Year 1226 (Christian year 1847)
The first use of piton in Iran’s mountaineering and technical climbing history
goes back to 1847, when a Kurdish boy helped the British archeologist going on his
studies in "Bistoon" historical yard.
The British young officer "Henry Rawlinson", who has done the primary
scientific studies regarding the inscriptions of "Bistoon" historical yard
«A few skillful local men helped me looking for inscriptions on every side of
Mt. "Bistoon". After all they talked about an inscription in Babylonian
dialect, which had been engraved on a rocky face of the mountain that seemed
inaccessible. Hence a Kurdish energetic boy voluntarily accepted to go after the
mission. He put a few wooden pitons into cracks and fixed a rope in between them. Then
he took advantage of a few aid climbing techniques and ascent about 20ft to reach the
right place. Then he made a harness for himself and got attached to the fixed line to
take a picture of Babylonian text under my supervision. It seems as a miracle in that
This event occurred 27 years prior to the birth of alpine club of France in 1874.
"Bistoon" historical yard is located a few ten kilometers east of Kermanshah
province, western Iran and also is one of the most attractive spots for rock climbing
over the country due to the same named 1200m limestone wall.