Having co-operation of "Davoud Mohammadi Far", Iran Mountain Zone is going to
publish short paragraphs from history of mountaineering in Iran in a weekly base. These
paragraphs will be extracted from notes and following books of Mohammadi Far :
1. History of mountaineering in Iran - M.A. Ebrahimi & D. Mohammadi Far , 2003
2. A chronological history of Iran’s mountaineering and caving - D. Mohammadi Far , 2005
3. Mountain’s lady - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
4. Directory of mountaineering and caving in Iran - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
5. Calendar of mountaineering history in Iran - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
References are in hand and are listed in mentioned books.
Website Manager November 2006
Shahrivar 4th, 1383 (August 25, 2004)
A mountain bike expedition started a trip from "Garmabdar" village in Tehran province to "Nour" in Mazandaran province through the middle Alborz Range on August 25th, 2004.
M.Ali M.Sadeqi, Firouzan F.Vand, Mohammad J.Vaziri and Mehdi Marouf started from "Khatoun Bargah" pass above "Garmabdar" village. Then they enjoyed a short smooth riding in "Lar" plateau. The most demanding part of the terrain lies at the north side of "Lar", where bikers should have passed a 3000er ridge at a place called "Ghorogh" cole. Finally the ride finished after three days at the coast of Caspian Sea.
Shahrivar 30th, 1380 (September 22, 2001)
On Friday, 21st of September in 2001, the general assembly of Union of Asian alpine Associations (UAAA) started in Matsumoto, Japan.
The head of Iran’s mountaineering federation, Sadeq Aqa-jani along with head of foreign affairs committee, Homayoun Bakhtiari took part in that 4-day meeting. During the general assembly, all members of UAAA unanimously confirmed Iran’s proposal to gather the first Asian joint expedition for a winter ascent on Mt. Damavand (5671m), the highest peak in Iran in December, 2001.
Shahrivar 1st, 1372 (August 23, 1993)
On Monday, 23rd day of August, 1993, an expedition of twelve mountaineers
from Esfahan Province led by Hamid Hajaarian left Baaj-Giran in Iran’s NE side
toward Tashkent in order to ascend Mt. Lenin.
Hadi Foghani, Mostafa Ghazi-Asgar, Rostam Hafizi, Majid Jamalifar, Siavash Hasanpour,
Hasan Sekhavat-Manesh, Saeid Ghasemi, Hussain Ghadirian, Hasan Farhang, Hussain
Davaatgar, Asghar Shakiba-Laghab were members of that team, who were invited by Uzbek
mountaineers for a joint attempt with five Uzbeks on Mt. Lenin (7135m).
Four of Iranians went up to a camp on 5000m. The next day, while they were in the way
to ascend to a camp in 5800m, a big cornice cracked and fell deep in Lenin glacier at
left hand side of their route. Due to heavy snowing in the previous days, the route
was not safe so that, Uzbek Aleck, leader of whole team headed to another safer route.
Proper season seemed to be ended, and bad weather forced Aleck to stop the
expedition and returned back to BC.
That trip charged each of Iranians with 1,500,000 Rials.
Shahrivar 17th, 1360 (September 8, 1981)
On Tuesday, 8th day of September, 1981 an expedition of nine alpinists
from Tehran, Arak and Hamedan cities set out for a few new attempts on "Yakhar" glacier of Mt. Damavand.
Ebrahim Babaei, Gholam-Reza Daneshvar, Abbaas Mohammadi, Jalal Forouzan, Mohsen Nouri
and Vahid Asgari from Tehran along with Naser Khoush-e-Chin and Mehrdad Geranpaye,
respectively from Araak and Hamedan carried 350kg of stuff and climbing gears to a
camp in the right hand side of "Yakhar" valley.
Immediately after they arrived in BC, Babaei started to climb and fixed ropes on
vertical part of glacier. The next day, Ebrahim along with Jalal in a single rope followed
by naser and his rope-mate, Gholam-Reza climbed Yakhar glacier’s vertical
section for the first time in Iran’s Mountaineering History. They reached
Damavand’s summit at 10 P.M. on Wednesday and returned back to Takht-e-Fereydoun
hut on NE ridge for a short rest. Summiteers left fixed ropes for the last rope-mates,
Abbass and Dariush so that they descended the same route on Yakhar and carried all
remaining equipments to their camp.
Last day of their scheduling dedicated to another attempt on Yakhar from a different
route, where Abbass, Dariush, Mohsen and Mehrdad ascended the northern colouir of
glacier and stepped on summit at 5976m on Thursday, September 10th.
Shahrivar 21st, 1340 (September 12, 1961)
On Tuesday, 12th of September in 1961 a small team comprised of Tehran mountaineers teamed up to repair "Speed-Kamar" hut on Mt. Tochal. Led by Emil Markarian and khalil Milani, they spent 8 days to renovate the entire hut.
"Speed-Kamar" is a 14 square-meter hut located around 2810 m at the right hand side of "Tochal" gondola lift line that has been built in 1947 by M.Kazem G.Pour and his coworkers.
Summer, 1329 (1950)
In summer, 1950, Jalil Katibeei together with M.Ali Tafreshi did one of the most technical ascents of those days in Takht-e-Solaiman region, west Alborz.
These two rope-mates opened the first route up the northern wall of Mt. Shakhak (4750 m) at eastern shoulder of Alam-Kouh summit (4860 m). That event is considered the beginning of modern alpinism in the country.
Shahrivar 14th, 1324 (September 5, 1945)
September 5, 1945 was a Wednesday that an expedition of nine mountaineers left Rasht
city of Gilan province in north side of Iran toward Mt. "Dorfak". Located in
"Siah-kal" district in south side of the Caspian
Sea, Dorfak is noted as a beautiful mountain, whose trekking route starts from
seashore forests toward its 2771m summit.
This expedition was leaded by Mohammad Kouchesfahani and composed of Mohammadi,
Dadvar, Shariat-Zadeh, Shahrestani, Salim, Mizan, Bayani and Shahangian, who passed
more than 207 km on foot to reach the summit on 15th of September. In order
to return home, they decided to descend from the southern side of the mountain, which
heads to Ghazvin city. Afterwards, they arrived in Tehran and spent the night in
"Nirou and Rasti" Mountaineering Club, then go back to their home city.
Shahrivar, 1215 (September, 1836)
In September, 1836, G.H. Thomson summited Mt. Damavand and became
the first one, who has ever spent a night on top of the highest mountain in Iran.
However, Russian explorer, Grigori Melgunov believes that Thomson has summited in
1937, where he writes in "Melgunov’s itinerary to southern banks of the
« In September, 1837 Thomson accompanying with four local guides reached
Damavand»s summit. He estimated the summit height to be about 19400 feet (6300
meters). It was about to sunset so they decided to sleep in a hole on the east side of
According to Thomson’s report, their clothing was all covered with a sheet of
ice but all melted in a flash, when they entered that hot hole.
They spent whole night in vicinity of ashes and bad smells of Sulfur. In the morning,
when they got rid of that smelly hole, again a sheet of ice covered their clothing.