Having co-operation of "Davoud Mohammadi Far", Iran Mountain Zone is going to
publish short paragraphs from history of mountaineering in Iran in a weekly base. These
paragraphs will be extracted from notes and following books of Mohammadi Far :
1. History of mountaineering in Iran - M.A. Ebrahimi & D. Mohammadi Far , 2003
2. A chronological history of Iran’s mountaineering and caving - D. Mohammadi Far , 2005
3. Mountain’s lady - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
4. Directory of mountaineering and caving in Iran - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
5. Calendar of mountaineering history in Iran - D. Mohammadi Far , to be published
References are in hand and are listed in mentioned books.
Website Manager November 2006
Tir 30th, 1381 (July 21, 2002)
Ali Haj-Saeed, Azim Gheychisaz and Husain Azimi got to the top of Mt. Marble Wall on July 21, 2002.
They were members of Iran’s national team who had been chosen after a hard selection process. Arriving in Tien-Shan, the whole team split into two smaller groups, one for Marble and the other set off toward Khantengri. That expedition was invited to take part in Asian joint expedition hosted by Kyrghyzstan Mountaineering Federation.
Tir 22nd, 1378 (July 13, 1999)
On Tuesday, July 13th in 1999 French Pascal Lurie fell to his death, while
rappelling "Sa’at" wall in Koram-Abad, Luristan.
Through a mutual collaboration between Iran and French mountaineering federations,
Pascal and two other French alpinists had come to Iran for climbing big walls and also
trekking in mountains.
Tir 26th, 1370 (July 17, 1991)
On Wednesday July 17, 1991 a group of five Tehrani mountaineers teamed up for a long trekking from west side of Mt. Damavand in eastern end of Middle Alborz toward Hesarchal valley at south side of Takht-e-Solaiman, heart of west Alborz.
Ebrahim Babaei and Fereydoun Esmaeel-Zadeh from Arash Mountaineers club along with Ali Mohammad-Pour, Jalal Forouzan and Majid Bani-Hashemi passed several 4000ers summit during their attempt which lasted for 11 days.
Tir 25th, 1354 (July 16, 1975)
On July 16, 1975, students from Tehran University of Technology climbed French route on northern wall iof Alam-Kuh and achieved the summit at 4850m.
TUT’s team was led by Safar Yazdan-Doust was the leader and comprised of twelve men plus a woman named Fatemeh Khoshand. That was the third attempt on Alam-Kouh’s north wall via French route which had been established in 1966 by a group of Alpine Club’s climber.
Research evidence shows Fatemeh is the first Iranian woman climbed on Alam-Kouh wall.
Tir 25th, 1344 (July 16, 1965)
On 16th of July, the first documented ascent of Mt.
Damavand from "Yakahr" glacier was done.
Starting from "Stele-Sar" at the foot of Damavand, Bahman Nasehi and
Jahangir Emam members of Damavand Ski and Mountaineering Club of Tehran climbed the
long and huge "Yakhar" in five days.
Located in north east side of Damavand, climbing "Yakhar" glacier is
considered one of the most technical routes to the mountain’s summit.
Tir 9th, 1343 (June 30, 1964)
On Tuesday, June 30, 1964, a well equipped expedition composed of Mehri Zar-Afshan,
Naser Rostami, Vartan Zakarian and Fazlollah Amir-Alaei set off toward
Takht-e-Solaiman region, western Alborz range.
The expedition’s main target was to climb the NE wall of Mt. Takht-e-Solaiman
(4659m) and partially fulfilled. Besides, they spent one day to review Ice techniques
in "Sarchal" glacier and ascent Siah Kaman (4472m), Chaloun (4516m),
Kalache-Band (4392m) and Pasand-Kouh (4000m).
Tir 5th, 1343 (June 26, 1964)
A team of six climbers from Bistoon Club and climbers’ union of Tehran topped Mt. Damavand via south route and descent from the west on June 26, 1964.
Akabr Bashrdoust (leader), Akbar Tabrizi, Husain Daneshmand, Sirus Zargari, Reza Danesh and Naser Heidarpour spent 24 hours to accomplish the mission, which no one had done before.
Tir 16th, 1341 (July 7, 1962)
On Saturday, July 7th in 1962, an expedition of 7 surveyors from Shiraz set
off to meaasure the height of peaks located in "Dena" chain.
At the end of their expedition which lasted for 8 days, they announced that there are
almost 40 peaks above 4000 meters located in Dena chain. Meanwhile they topped out six
4000ers for the first time.
The expedition’s members were: Miss Manizhe Kosar, colonel Kosar (leader), Ahmad
Marefat, Bozorg Vosoughi, Abdol-Vahhab Ashrafi-pour, Mohammad-Hasan Mofleh and
Located between Yasouj, Shiraz and Isfahan, "Dena" is a chain of high peaks
in Zagros range.
Tir 10th, 1341 (July 1, 1962)
On Sunday, July 1st in 1962, an expedition of four
mountaineers from "Damavand Ski and Mountaineering" club of Iran left
Chamonix mountaineering school for an attempt on Mont Blanc.Team members were,
Mohammad Azami, Abdollah Rashtian, Naser Fallah and Sarallah Zarrin-ghalam.
They were accompanied by famous Iranian mountaineer, Jalil Katibeei, when they could
ascend the highest mountain in Europe on July 2nd, after one night sleeping
in a midway shelter.
Afterwards, they headed toward Zermatt city in Switzerland to test their chances on
Matterhorn.After preparing all needs, they set off toward the summit accompanying with
no local guide. Eventually, Rashtian and his rope-mate Zarrin-ghalam along with Naser
and Mohammad in the second rope reached the summit. At that time, this success drew
attention of Swiss councils of alpinism and made them to appreciate Iranian climbers.
At the end of their travel, they climbed Mt. Olympus which is considered as one of the
highest mountains in Europe in terms of topographic prominence, the relative altitude
from base to top.
Tir 16th, 1336 (July 7, 1957)
Third Mountain guide training course among Iranian climbers kicked off with 28 men and women on July 7, 1975 in "Zaygan" valley in Lavasanat region, north of Tehran.
The course took 15 days, where attendees underwent instructions on rock climbing and also ice & snow techniques. Instructors were Gegham Minasian, Farrokh Rahmdel, Reza Ghadiri and Rahman Setayesh. At last, Rahim Badr, Fazlollah Amir-Alaei and Mahmoud Fotouhi were known as top trainees and also Narges Hakimi got the title as the first women mountain guide of Iran.
Tir, 1331 (July, 1952)
The first Mountaineering instructor training course of Iran was
executed under the supervision of famous Iranian climber, Mohammad Kazem Gilanpour On July 7th, 1957.
The class was carried out in "Lalan" canyon, in Middle Alborz, where Reza
Ghdiri-Nia, Houshang Mohit, Mohammad Azami, Abdollah Rashtian, Farrokh Rahmdel, Gegham
Minassian, Norayr Minassian, Flix Minasakanian, Hamlet Charkhcian and Essa Omidvar
certified as the first mountaineering instructors of Iran.
Tir, 1271 (July, 1892)
One hundred and seventeen years ago, the first all-Iranian speleological research was
done. During this research, Iranian Mohammad Forsat Shirazi arranged an expedition of
nine local and three armed men to do a complete survey of "Shahpour" cave in
city of Kazeroun in the southern half of Iran. Equipped with twelve candles and 150m
ropes, they could enter and study the cave inside.
In addition to being a speleologist, Forsat Shirazi was also an author who has written
"Persian works" book.